Cashmere Care Explained: How to Look After Cashmere Properly
At Douglas-Brown, we design clothing to be worn, lived in, and kept for years. We work exclusively with the highest grades of fibre, chosen for their longevity as much as their softness. This guide outlines how to care for cashmere properly, so it can be enjoyed as intended for years to come.
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Cashmere is often described as a delicate material, but high grade cashmere is surprisingly resilient when it’s cared for correctly. The key to long-lasting cashmere lies in understanding how the fibres behave — and how everyday habits affect them.
This guide aims to explain every aspect of cashmere care, from washing and drying to storing and managing pilling. I'll also include some tips for when you are actually wearing your cashmere.
Whilst the information in this article holds true for pretty much all woollens, it will be focusing specifically on the highest grades of cashmeres that are produced here at Douglas-Brown. Lower grades of cashmere will not respond in the same way. That is to say that if the innitial quality of the item is poor, no amount of care will keep it in good condition. For a thorough grounding in cashmere quality and our cashmere in particular, please read the Cashmere Grades Article.
There's a lot to get through so i'll try and keep it ordered as logically as possible...
Piling
Lets start with the one everybody asks about. All cashmere will pill to some degree and there is no getting around this fact. If you wear your new sweater and some pills come to the surface, it is not something to panic about. The degree to which your sweater pills, however, will depend entirely upon the grade of the cashmere fibres themselves and the quality of the garment production. Again, the cashmere grades article linked above will give you all the information you need about this.
The best cashmere will pill less and less as you wear it more and more. After the shorter fibres are shed in the first few wears it will settle down. To deal with any piling that does occur, we have a few options. The trick is to remove the pills without disturbing the surrounding fibres. As such, you should try to avoid pulling the pills with your fingers. You will undoubtably be agitating and loosening fibres that weren't a problem in the first place. The two best methods are cashmere combs or electric cashmere razors. Both work well, and both have their advantages but I have always preffered the electric razor. When used properly I have found them to be capable of de-piling even the finest, most delicate knits with precision. Whichever tool you use, just take your time and be gentle. Remeber, the aim is to avoid removing fibres that dont need to be removed.
As I said, all cashmere will pill to come degree but there are some things to consider that can exaurbate it. Ultimately, piling is caused by friction. When your sweater rubs against materials and objects repeatedly, the fibres get pulled out of the weave and are left on the surface as a pill. The main culprits of this are things like seatbelts and bag straps so be aware of these in particular. Also, unlined coats can do massive damage depending on their composition. Always try to wear coats with smooth linings over your cashmere sweaters. Having said that, avoiding all friction is an impossible task in every day life. My advice here is not to worry too much about it. Avoid it when you can but never to the point that you stop wearing your cashmere out of fear. Cashmere is there to be enjoyed so enjoy it. Remember that caring for cashmere is not about hiding it away to keep it safe. It is about extending the life of it whilst you enjoy it.
How Often Should Cashmere Be Washed?
So you have purchaed your sweater, you've worn it a few times, you have dealt with some piling. Is it time to wash it?? Due to its high breathabillty and anti-bacterial properties, cashmere fibres naturally resist odours. If there is no stain to remove, airing is often enough to refresh a garment. Excessive washing only risks damaging your cashmere for no benefit. The only time you absolutely have to wash your garment is before putting it into storage over the warmer months (more on this later).
As a general guide:
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Wash cashmere after three to five wears.
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Air garments between wears.
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Spot clean small areas when needed.
How to Wash Cashmere Properly
Hand Washing Cashmere
If it's time to wash your garment, hand washing is the safest and most effective way to clean cashmere. Some knitwear care labels will say "dry clean only". I never reccommend this. Dry cleaning involves harsh chemicals that damage cashere fibres. "Dry clean only" is a label used when a company wants to avoid issues arising from user error. Its avoids compaints and pushes liabilty onto the dry cleaners. However, it is not what is best for your cashmere. Handwashing is always the best and safest way. It's also very simple...
Washing Method:
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Fill a basin with cool or lukewarm water - No hotter than 30°C. We don't want to shrink it. If you're nervous on your first try, just use cold water.
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Add a small amount of specialised cashmere detergent. Follow the instructions for the correct amount. Whilst I am not affiliated with them, I have personally used products from both The Laundress New Yorkand Clothes Doctor London. Both offer excellent shampoos for delicate cashmere.
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Submerge the garment in the water, letting the water pass through every inch of it. This is the key part. We are not scrubbing it. We are trying to cause the least amount of fibre on fibre friction. Think lift and press rather than swirl and scrub. By that I do not mean to lift it out of the water. You lift it within the water and gently press is back down. Do this a few times on different sections until it is soaked through. Keep it slow and even.Let the detergent do the work for you. It will lift stains without any great physical input.
- Once it is fully soaked through, leave it to sit for 10 minutes. Again we are letting the detergent do the work. Have a cup of tea and marvel at your own capabilites.
- Now it is time to rinse. Drain the bowl of all water and re-fill it with cool water. Use the lift and press method again. This time we are pushing clean water through the garment to carry away any left over detergant. Do not be tempted to be more aggressive here. It is far better to drain the sink again and refill with fresh water a few times and continue being gentle. Repeat until the water runs clear and you have no more suds. Drain the bowl for the final time.
You now have a clean, but wet, piece of clothing in the sink. Many people here make the huge mistake of grabbing it by the shoulders and lifting it out. NEVER do this. With the weight of water in it, you will instantly stretch the shoulders or whatever part of it you are holding.
Drying Method:
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Gently push the cashmere up agianst the side or back of the bowl and press the water out of it. Be gentle, this is just to remove the bulk of the water. We are not looking for bone dry so no wringing or twisting at all. We're still doing everything to avoid friction as much as possible.
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Once the bulk of the water is removed, cup your hands underneath the garment and lift it out of the sink in a ball. Lifting it out from underneath rather than pulling it out from the top avoids any stretching.
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Place the ball of clothing on a clean towel and gently open it up until it is laying flat. Whilst it is still wet, the water weight will allow you to shape it back to normal. (If you really want to be precise, you can take measurments such as body and arm length before you wash it and then re-shape it to those specs).
- If it is still dripping wet at this point you can roll it up in the towel to blot out any excess water. Start at one end and roll the towel & garment together until you have a sausage shape. It should be snug but not tight. Then simply press down gently across the length of the roll to blot the water out. The towel will be doing most of the work so theres no need to be press too hard.
- Now simply unroll it, lay the cashmere out on a fresh towel, rehsape again and then allow it to air dry. Do not hang it, it will stretch. It usally takes between 12-24 hours depending on the garment. If it's still wet after that, place it on a fresh towel. Never try to speed up the process with heaters or by leaving it in the sun. Slow drying preserves the fibres.
Can Cashmere Be Machine Washed?
Many cashmere garments advertise themselves as being machine washable. Whilst technically you can do this, hand washing is always preferable and will yield superior results in almost all cases. Personally, I never recommend machine washing cashmere because it puts a lot of trust in your machines temperature control and also it's ability to be delicate enough. This reliability varies drastically from machine to machine.
How to Store Cashmere Properly
Storage plays a major role in maintaining cashmere’s shape and condition. Between wears and airing out, store your cashmere folded away from direct light. It does not need to be kept in bags during these colder months as moths are not active.
Always Store Cashmere Folded
Hanging causes garments to stretch under their own weight, particularly at the shoulders and neckline. Folding preserves the structure and original fit. You will notice in my store that I never have cashmeres hanging. They are always folded.
Long Term Storage
Over the summer months when yor cashmere is not in use, it will go into long term storage. The biggest danger here is moths. Before you do anything else, make sure that you have washed and dried your cashmere. Moths are attracted to body oils and dirt so the cashmere needs to be completely clean and bone dry.
You can store your cashmere in breathable cotton storage bags or airtight bags. The usual advice is to use cotton bags as they allow the cashmere to breathe. However, as long as the garments are bone dry and clean, plastic airtight bags can be used. You just need to open them periodcially to air the cashmere out. Both methods work well. The cotton bags being less maintenance whilst the airtight plastic bags giving the ultimate protection.
If you're storing your cashmere in airtight plastic bags, they are safe. You don't really need further layers of protection as nothing can enter the bag. If you're using cotton bags and want some extra levels of protection you can use natural repellents such as cedar or lavender. Be sure to refresh these frequently and avoid using chemical moth balls as they can leave strong odours.
Repairing cashmere
No matter how diligently you look after your cashmere, accidents do happen. A hole can appear or a snag can pull. Sometimes these things just happen. For those of you that own a Douglas-Brown cashmere, do not fret, just get in touch. More often than not, we can send the piece to our knitters for a repair. Keeping these clothes wearable in the long term is key to our drive towards true sustainability. You would be amazed at how pristine a repair can be. You wouldnt even know a repair had been made.
One final thought...
Your cashmere is supposed to be worn and used. Following the advice above will keep your cashmere fresh for years, even decades to come. If you've been into the store, you will probably have seen me wearing my own cashmere cardigan. If you have, I can tell you that as of writing this in January 2026, that cardigan is 16 years old and is one of my most worn pieces. That is the joy of it. Handled gently, washed thoughtfully, and stored properly, high-quality cashmere will get better with age. Never save it for best, wear it and enjoy it.